If New York Fashion Week has been plagued by an identity crisis with a thinning schedule and glut between the passing of one generation and the search for another, then Jacobs's answer, with his own label suffering from falling revenue, was fantastical romance.
He returned to the Park Avenue Armory and a bare set -- rows of utilitarian chairs with rapper Cardi B, singer Debbie Harry and fellow designer Raf Simons -- whose tenure at Calvin Klein has given Jacobs a run for his money -- sitting front row.
Outside, a small but vocal group of animal rights activists denounced the 54-year-old designer's use of fur. "Animals are not ours to wear," they yelled. "Marc Jacobs kills because you buy," read the placards.
Models wore wide-brimmed black hats, necks were wrapped in scarfs and the upper body cloaked in flourishes that emphasized the beauty of the luxurious fabrics and re-drew the contours of the body.
Those without hats sported sharp geometric haircuts, their tresses dyed to match the hue of their attire, from blue to green and purple.
His flamboyant shoes -- like something out of a children's fairy book -- with huge buckles and pink silk may have seen several of the models stumble slightly in their footing, but they were works of art.
"Huge flourishes, gestures, broad strokes and silhouettes expressed in rich and gorgeous fabrics," Jacobs wrote in the notes.
Masses of material were bunched up into rosettes, ruffles and flounces at the neck, waist and hip. Waists were cinched, pants cropped.